Chemainus is a smaller town on Vancouver Island about 45km south of Nanaimo, known for its murals and artsy vibe. It’s unique for southwestern BC in that regard, as most of our small towns are conservative and rather devoid of culture. It’s also the town that my dad moved to a few years ago.
I’d put together a route last year which I rode in the heat of summer, and while it was overall successful in its goal of avoiding the highway and taking some trails, by the last 20 km I was firmly in ‘type two’ fun category due to the combination of heat and exhaustion combined with unexpectedly challenging climbs and descents both.
This time around I opted to ride through Ladysmith instead of taking the rotary club trail along the powerlines above town, but left the rest as I rode it last July.
I rolled out at 8am, and the photo going over the Lions Gate was taken at 8:30. I had a sunny day ahead of me with mild temperatures, so I couldn’t ask for better in that regard. I had slept well and was feeling good despite being quite ill with a stomach bug a few days prior.


I heard an eagle as I pedaled along West Vancouver and it took no time at all to spot it in a treetop nearby. Otherwise, pretty uneventful ride to the ferry and I arrived with plenty of time. An older Malaysian couple arrived on bikes for the ferry shortly after and we got to talking – they were 3 years retired and had travelled all over the globe doing some bucket list tours in Japan, Taiwan, and elsewhere – very cool! They were off to ride up island and then back down the sunshine coast.



I have honed my favourite way out of Nanaimo – it’s far from direct, but almost exclusively off-street and meanders through three beautiful wooded areas: Bowen Park shown below, Buttertubs Marsh, and Colliery Dam park. Connecting each is exclusively quiet roads and MUPs.

The waterfall below is in Bowen Park while the gradual climb through the forest is Colliery. The path through Colliery places you directly across the street from the pathway that runs parallel the highway which takes you out of town and into the southern suburbs.


Below is said pathway – it also ducks into the forest a bit more, feeling quite secluded. Perhaps too much so for some walkers.

This pathway ends after passing under the highway in a suburb evidently named Starks. It’s pretty rural at this point, and there are three options I’ve identified to get the next few kilometres: the highway, Cedar Rd, or up the disused moto trail network and down some rural roads from there. Cedar Rd is not too bad, but no shoulder combined with the average vehicle size in rural Nanaimo make it less attractive. The moto trails are in a rather lovely natural area so that’s an easy pick, even though it means going directly up and over a ~80m hill. Pictured below are the forested part of the highway trail (left) and the climb into the moto trails (right).


The climb alternates between rideable and not, and there are a couple places where it’s barely walkable due to the steepness and loose surface.


The fact these are primarily dirt bike trails is evident above – the steep bits are deeply rutted out. Below left doesn’t look bad in photos but it’s actually really difficult to get up at all; I had to walk in the shrubs off-trail to get enough traction for the short section steep grade. Last July when I hit this spot it nearly broke me; I took probably 20 minutes to get up it as I kept sliding down with every movement.


Once beyond the climb though it levels off into a pretty lovely trail to ride, even though its surface is very soft from the dirt bikes. Once out, I made sure to appreciate the seasonal flowers in the rural gardens that lined the streets.


After that, it’s a descent on some country roads and a very brief bit of highway just to get over the Nanaimo River.


The next “detour” from the beaten path is to access West Bush Main, a few kilometres of rough gravel typically travelled by dirt bikes and ATVs.



The first bit is an eclectic mix of terrain, as pictured above, but settles into rough gravel as shown below for the majority of this section. It’s entirely doable on a gravel bike but would be most enjoyable on some big MTB tires.



The truck above is located on the first bit of paved road after leaving the bush. At this point I’m just outside Ladysmith, which is a rather cute town with a historic-looking main drag and a brewery that was packed. I opted to grab a single can to-go and drank it along the tracks between Ladysmith and Chemainus. There is about 10km between the two, and almost all of it is along a gravel rail trail (below, right) that is a joy to ride.



At last I reached my dad’s place in Chemainus, which is ocean front. Shortly after arriving we were drinking beers on the rocky coastline at high tide as shown below.
