This post will be a longer one, because I just got back from two nights and three trail-filled days of riding to, on, and from Gabriola Island. Gabriola is a part of the southern gulf island range, but located at the north end of the range and just a short hop from Nanaimo on Vancouver Island. Coming from the mainland, it’s the only southern gulf island that is accessed via the Horseshoe Bay > Nanaimo ferry, which is about half the distance from my place as the Tsawassen ferry that accesses the rest.

I wasn’t trying to catch an especially early ferry, so I took some liberties to avoid the somewhat busy main road to explore adjacent streets and connections. Since West Vancouver is notoriously steep and rocky, this also means a fair bit of extra effort for the same mileage.


I arrived at Horseshoe Bay with plenty of time. I added a pack of beer to my pannier rack:

I didn’t take any photos on the big boat which took me from the mainland to Vancouver Island, but here’s my Bombadil on the small boat that goes from Nanaimo to Gabriola Island. I muuuch prefer these smaller boats.

The campsite is only about 1.5km from the ferry, so it wasn’t long before I was set up. I had booked this site specifically after eyeing it up last year – it has a great view of the inlet as you can see, and good separation from adjacent sites. This was my first time with the Durston tent, it’s an X-Dome 1+, and I was really happy with how easily it went up and how roomy it is. It’s about the same weight as my MEC Spark 1, but much roomier and better features.

Once the tent was pitched, I wasted no time getting out for an evening trail loop. Anyone familiar with Gabriola probably knows how good the trails are here – there’s a seemingly endless network of relatively smooth, relatively flat single track that spiderwebs the island.



Plus, there’s goats! And, not pictured, plenty of turkeys roaming around.

Once back at camp I had a bit of food and headed for a walk along the opposite side of the cove before the sun set. I admired the tenacity of the trees growing along the cliffside:


At the end of the trail is a lovely grassy patch to sit and watch the water. A great blue heron was standing on the rock in the distance and barely moved during my tenure.


Once back to the campground, I was treated to a rather perfect sunset at high tide in the inlet, capping off a really nice first day at camp. At this point I was solo, and the campground was still pretty quiet as it was a Friday. But my friend Tay and her partner Gina were joining tomorrow for some social time as well.

A couple more photos from the evening walk: lilacs at dusk, my favourite rock in the bay, and a me-sized cavity in the sandstone.



I went to bed just after 9pm because it was dark and I had little else I wanted to accomplish. I slept quite well, waking up just a few times. I was also on a new pad, a super-thick Neoloft from Thermarest. It was pretty heavy compared to my normal pad, but in addition to comfort it was also much quieter with a fabric-like top and no crinkle!
I was out of the tent shortly after 7am, and tried to make coffee – only to find my trusty MSR Whisperlite had a clog somewhere that all my troubleshooting could not fix. It hissed air, but passed no liquid fuel. So I fashioned a cold-brew by passing the first runnings back through the beans again with my Aeropress, got sufficiently caffeinated, then headed out for a ride again at 9am.
Right across the street from the campground entrance is this trail, which works its way through a wooded area and drops you at the end of a gravel road.


From there I headed north to a section of the island I was unfamiliar with. I dropped down a steep winding road, knowing full well I’d pay for that later, and to the end of the coastal road where a trail began. A local walking their dog was in the middle of telling a road cyclist that they don’t recommend trying to get through on this trail as it can be muddy. I made some comment about having knobby tires and headed off anyway.
To my surprise, after a short distance along the coastal trail I found myself alongside a huge, beautiful, untracked beach at low tide. The sand was wet enough to ride along, and the beach stretched for about a kilometre, of which I rode end to end. At this point it was 10:15am, the sun was warm, and I had the beach entirely to myself.

I continued on to the rest of the trail, which was a bit rooty and technical but mostly rideable. I saw quite an old Douglas Fir, but not a single other person.





The trail plopped me out on the road towards the far end of the 14km long island from camp. I continued to loop around and see the remainder of the coastline, most of which I hadn’t been to before. Along the far side are a series of small islands just off the coast, a marina, and a motel. The traverse back along South Rd was a grind at times, due to a combination of surprisingly hot sun and unsurprisingly steep hills. I stopped along the coast to check out the views and was treated to a Kingfisher doing its thing – very loudly!
After a while on the road, I was back to the central island trail network and headed back in. Below are some of the many points where I had to take a moment to appreciate how beautiful these trails are!




Back at camp, the tide was all the way out of the bay – it’s amazing how far it travels. Where I stood to take this photo was under water just a few hours earlier!

Also, check out this tree that’s still hanging on, despite losing the earth below it quite some time ago:

Around this time is when Tay, Gina, and the elderly duck toller Denver showed up. After some time getting settled and set up, I took them for a loop that sampled some of the different terrain available on the island, hitting a few trails I’d done that morning.
Denver is going to be 15 this summer, and while clearly slowing down and feeling aches and pains, he was able to jog a stretch of trail and absolutely loved it – in his younger years he was quite the trail dog, so this must have felt like home to him.




We walked out to Malaspina Galleries, about 45 minutes each way, and arrived just in time for sunset at high tide. It was perfect!

The second night was a similar sleep pattern – we all climbed into our tents around 9:15pm, and I emerged in the morning just after 7. Waking up to a view of my bike was quite welcome, too:

I should have pointed my tent at the water though.
It was nice to have hot coffee and oatmeal this time, thanks to Gina’s stove. I unhurriedly packed up my tent and kit, and checked the ferry schedule. The next boat left at 9:20am, and it was currently 9:07. Given the proximity, this was doable – so I said my goodbyes and took off, arriving at the dock at 9:14. Tay and Gina took their time and caught the next boat, though we ended up on the same big boat back to the mainland.


I decided to ride around Nanaimo for a couple hours since I was here anyway, but it was a pretty un-noteworthy 22km loop. I did take this photo of my rig though:

Once back on the mainland, I wanted to try a new variation on my route home. The simplest and lowest elevation option is to ride Marine Drive, which is what almost all cyclists opt for. It’s lumpy but not too bad, the downside though is that it is mostly without shoulder and relatively popular to drive as well.
Another option is to push up a steep connector trail to the Whyte Lake parking lot along Westport Rd, and then ride the ‘high route’ from there. Once at the top of the connector, this is a quiet and lovely route with mostly rolling hills, save one arduous climb – but the connector is no joke with a loaded bike.
So what I tried was something between these: sections of Marine, but then climbing up to adjacent roads that are connected by short stretches of trail – the latter which few know about other than the nearby residents. This ended up being quite a bit more effort than just riding Marine despite still spending a fair bit of time on the sections of Marine I prefer to avoid – so in that respect, it wasn’t very successful.
HOWEVER! On one of the streets I noticed a particularly large cedar in a front yard, pictured below right. I stopped to get a photo of it, and looking around realized there were other big trees nearby too. Bigger than I’d seen in a residential area around here – generally, the trees are never older than the homes, but these looked to be older than the neighbourhood they were in.


That’s when I noticed a massive Douglas Fir just about 30 feet off the road in a small wooded area. And then another one along the road. There were also a half-dozen cedars of similar size, too. These were about 7 ft diameter, perhaps a smidge larger, and by far the biggest I’ve seen in a residential area. Stanley Park has some huge cedars but I don’t know of a Douglas Fir this big in the park – the only firs larger I know of around here are up in the mountains, and even then, quite rare.


What a joy it was to come across that surprise, and make my otherwise questionable route worthwhile. I got home around 6pm and had a much-needed shower. A perfect get-away and lovely start to the 2026 camping season.





























































































